v Praze

Husband arrived in Berlin the day after my program ended so that we could spend a week just enjoying Berlin together. Originally, we’d thought to go to Copenhagen for a couple of days – but a couple of my classmates had tried to talk me into a couple days in Prague during our free weekend. I went back and forth on whether to go or not but ultimately decided that one, I didn’t have the energy for a (to me) frantic in and out trip to Prague and two, I didn’t know how I’d feel about returning so I’d rather have gone with Husband.

SO, when Husband arrived, we decided to hop the bus to Prague for a quick two days. (We took the bus there, which was surprisingly simple, but took the train back… honestly, I love trains, they’re always my favorite way to travel.)

 

Ironically, because it was such a short trip and I let Husband choose a (very nice) boutique hotel that he’d seen in the New York Times, the Boho, we wound up spending all the time there in the one general area I would usually have avoided like the plague! That area would be the Old Town area, which I usually wanted nothing to do with because it’s Tourist central. Though as we walked around, it was fine because I realized that, even when I lived in Prague, I still spent a lot of time walking through this area for one reason or another. Josefov is always beautiful, I always had fantasies of living in a flat above Pařížská (Paris Street) around Christmas time. I spent a great deal of time utilizing the wifi (“wee-fee” in Czech!) and drinking Videnske Kava at Restaurace Jáma on v Jame and a couple of theaters that showed international and indie films there. (Lucerna, of course, and another whose name escapes me at the moment.) I remember seeing “Children of Men” here one evening, by myself, at the theatre off of Vaclávské Námêstí. I accidentally dragged Husband on a ten mile walking trek from Boho up to Letná because I was hell bent on going in a particular direction.

I made sure to go to the Valdštejnská zahrada (Wallenstein Garden) because it was one of my favorite spots in Prague – I often went there, alone, to sit and read, write letters, and watch Summer concerts.

We passed by a Michelin Star restaurant and, because that’s “our thing”, immediately decided to make reservations for lunch the next day, but they weren’t open. So we searched “Michelin Star Prague” and wound up at Alcron, instead. We were NOT disappointed. It’s a tiny, wee little place with completely over the top decor and white glove service and it was magnificent. The one thing I had always said about Prague was that you don’t go for the food or the shopping. I mean, I’m not interested in going anywhere to shop, anyway, but I’m still dubious of Prague’s in that respect. The tasting menu at Alcron was outstanding and from what I’ve been reading, the food situation in Prague has changed drastically since I’ve been gone. So has the coffee situation! I did not have time to hit up the third wave cafes that were on my list, though I did manage to check out one (EMA Espresso Bar). I would have loved to go to the Coffee Room and an old favorite, Cafe Savoy – next time, perhaps. I am, as you know, very, very fussy about coffee. But going back to food – I was surprised to discover I had a massive craving for and needed to introducte husband to nakládaný hermelín (“marinated Camembert”, essentially.) I had forgotten about this delicious treat and realized I need to recreate it at home.

Nakládaný hermelín!

Alcron

Lastly, I was completely blown away by how much Czech I remembered. I wasn’t having lengthy conversations with anyone, but the fact that I was able to speak to the hotel staff and communicate with the restaurant servers in a way that not only was I understood, but they responded to me in Czech was … well, it was really satisfying.  (I had to talk myself down off of a “screw German, I’m going to take a year of Czech at UW!” ledge because I was so excited. And I still think Czech is utterly beautiful to hear.) Though I guess I shouldn’t be too surprised since Czech has creeped in A LOT over the past couple years as I’ve been learning Arabic and German.

I would definitely like to go back for a longer stay at some point, there are things I want to experience again and I’ve always felt like Prague & I have unfinished business.

 

UW Honors Berlin Study Abroad – final reflection / project

I The Plan

I went into this project wanting to study Arabic graffiti in Berlin. Having learned the Arabic language for the past year (with another year ahead), I’ve not only fallen in love with the language but, combined with my interest in the politics of public space, have also learned a great deal about Arabic graffiti in Arab countries and its role in events such as the Arab Spring. An entire book called Arabic Graffiti was published by the graffiti artist Don Karl (also known as “Stone”), full of beautiful images and short histories of graffiti in the various Arab countries and in the various Arabic dialects. I had also read Miriam Cooke’s “Dancing in Damascus” which examines the role of art (including graffiti) in the Syrian revolution.

The fifth season of the television series Homeland, was filmed in Berlin in September 2015. Most of the action happened in the city of Berlin itself, but one portion of the show was set in a Syria, in a refugee camp. This was also filmed in Berlin, on a designed set on the outskirts of the city, as filming in Syria itself would obviously be impossible. Egyptian graffiti artists were hired to add Arabic graffiti to the walls of the “camp” to create a more “authentic” appearance. The hired artists used the opportunity to scrawl several subservise messages throughout the walls in one scene, the most infamous message being, “Homeland is racist” (in protest of the portrayal of Muslims throughout the show) (Boshnaq, Bilefsky and Mona. 2015). With the history of the use of Arabic graffiti in revolutions in the Arab world as well as this incident on Homeland, I went to Berlin thinking there would be a vast sea of material to study and document. According to Dr Viola Georgi (as heard in our lecture at Humboldt), Germany had taken in 1.2 million refugees – over 265,000 of those are Syrian and nearly 100,000 from Iraq. With numbers like these , I took it for granted that there would be plenty of Arabic “urban art” to be found.

The “vast sea” of material became more like a needle in a haystack once I got to Berlin – there were only a couple of small bits of Arabic graffiti spotted over the course of several weeks. The reasons for the lack of Arabic graffiti may be numerous. I spoke to people in the refugee community, others who study graffiti and urban space, and people at my service organization who all theorized a potential lack of confidence, fear, and the simple fact that the Arab community was still fairly new here in Berlin. The Arabic language, in today’s political climate, is heavily stigmatized and to some groups, associated with terrorism. Perhaps the Arabic-speaking community doesn’t want to draw more attention to themselves. Perhaps those that would choose to be political and speak up are not in Berlin. The vast majority of the graffiti text that I saw was either in German or English – I also thought that people who wrote these words wanted them to be understood; Why write graffiti in Arabic when most of the audience of the city won’t be able to read it? Also, perhaps “urban art” is a luxury that the refugees in Berlin simply don’t have time or thought for. I think an entire paper could be written on this topic alone – the lack of Arabic graffiti in cities and the possible reasons as well as the idea that graffiti and subversive art as a “luxury”. However, I also noticed a distinct lack of the use of the language even in the signage for Arabic restaurants. For example, the Lebanese restaurant, “Nour”, a couple blocks away from the hostel we were staying in and which several of us frequented. I went there a few times each week to enjoy the best falafal and halloumi I’ve ever had. I practiced my meager Arabic skills on the man who was always working when I was there but the Arabic language was absent in all the signage within and outside the restaurant. I noticed a small bit of Arabic calligraphy only in a piece of art hanging on the walls within. As I spent more time wandering around the city and different districts, I noticed a few more places like this – food of Arab origins but the language distinctly lacking.

II Sonnenallee

When we met with our community partner, Empati, for the first time and I mentioned my interest in the Arabic language, Arabic graffiti and the apparent lack of it throughout the city, he immediately suggested that I visit Sonnenallee. He told me that it was referred to as “Arab Street” and reminded many of the Arab refugees and immigrants of “home” – Syria, Iraq, etc. I went searching for Arab Street the next day and I realized the moment I reached it, even before I checked the street sign – taking notice of the shops along the street, right in front of me, behind me, and to the sides there were several restaurants and shops with Arabic script above the shop windows, the doors, etc.  صيدلية، المدينة، مطعم… Apotheke (pharmacy), The City (a grocery store), restaurant, etc. There were hair salons advertising a “menu” of services in Arabic, halaal restaurants with menus of food, various shops, travel agencies, hookah bars, etc – all of them had signs in Arabic. Some had hand-written notes, in Arabic, taped up in the windows. There were large gatherings of families with women wearing hijabs outside each restaurant and it felt like a very familial atmosphere. Rather than the unpleasant smell of cigarettes that I observed all over the city, here what I noticed most was the soft, sweet and fruity scent of hookah. For a brief moment, it felt like stepping into a whole other country. Sonnenallee is about 5 km (barely over 3 miles) long, but this section known as “Arab Street”, “Little Damascus”, and “Little Gaza” was approximately six blocks long. One end started around the u-bahn and bus stop Hermannplatz (the particular stop that most people from the “Container Camp” used) and ended roughly around Wildenbruchstraße. There was no official, hard stop to this section of Sonnenallee, this was simply around where the dense concentration of stores with Arabic language grew sparse until completely disappearing again a block or two down.

 

III Pan Arab Space

Sonnenallee is important and interesting for several reasons. After my initial visit, I went back several times by myself and with a new friend who was, himself, Arab and who was staying in the “container camp” in Neukölln. I saw Sonnenallee as a kind of “pan Arab” space. In a very, very tiny nutshell: there is, on one hand, a distinct sense of identity among the individual countries of the Arab Peninsula as well as other Arabic-speaking countries that joined the “Arab League of Nations” (see notes). Though each country speaks Arabic, they have their own distinct dialect. There has been a push, by many in this Arab community, to preserve a style of Arabic (such as the Modern Standard Arabic which is used in the news) and a push for a stronger “pan Arab” sense of community. (Though many Arabs wish to come together under this umbrella of “pan Arab”, standardization of a common form of Arabic to be shared by all, side by side with each dialect, has become a proxy battle for other issues of power and validation among the countries involved. As I said, on one hand some people feel a strong, shared identity among Arab countries but on the other, they are quite different and separate.) This notion of a pan Arab identity or pan Arab spaces often seems like an impossibility. However, it struck me during my third or fourth trip to Sonnenallee that right here in Berlin was a small slice of this pan Arab notion. My friend, M, took me to a place for lunch that he proudly declared was Iraqi. When I looked it up online later, it was said to be Syrian-Iraqi. I told him this and he argued with me saying it was Iraqi. Of course, all “Arabs” are most definitely not the same. Though it did seem to me that for the Arabs that frequented the Arab shops on Sonnenallee, though some restaurants may be replicas of restaurants from Damascus or serving up Lebanese or Iraqi variations of well known Arabic food, for the Arabs that spent time here it was a place for them to bond over the parts of their “Arab identity” that were shared among them and the parts of their experience here in Berlin that was common to many. Again, as “M” showed me when he took me to Al Medina grocery store to buy small bags of pita bread, he held out the bread towards me and said, “This is where we all come for our bread.”

Thanks to the news, when I think of refugees, I primarily think of Syria. My visits to this camp reminded me that there were more than just Syrian refugees – “M” and his roommate were both from Iraq. Though we did not meet any in the camp, there are Palestinian refugees in Berlin (hence, Sonnenallee also being called “Little Gaza”). Regardless of what part of the Arab world they are from, they can all go to Sonnenallee and, I’m told, be reminded of “home” as well as find many familiar foods and their native language (or close enough to it) all around. If someone from Iraq wishes to enter a hair salon run by someone with a Syrian immigrant background, they can speak and be understood in their Arabic dialect. Lastly, returning to the idea of a “shared experience” as Arabs, in Placing Panethnicity: Performing Arab Space on Sonnenallee, Hilary Silver describes Sonnenallee thusly:

These businesses do not sell fruits and vegetables, but rather goods and services that demarcate a specifically Arab space.  The Arab businesses are frequently engaged in illicit or off-the-books activities to make ends meet in an economy from which they are formally excluded.  Based upon field work and interviews with shopkeepers and customers, religious and ethnic association leaders and members, government officials, and Turkish competitors who cluster along a different Neukölln street, I report on the place-making activities of Arab Berliners.  I find this street offers “safe” public space for Arab political and cultural expression and the forging of “pan-ethnic” community.   Beyond common Arabic language, this street and nearby square is the location of pan-ethnic demonstrations and the center of ethnic associations, mosques, and predominantly Arab parks, schools, and other institutions in which solidarity crosses national lines.  The symbolic boundaries of pan-ethnic space separate Arabs from both Turks and Germans” (Silver, 2014).

IV Heterotopia and Borders

Obviously, not all Arabs in Berlin are refugees but for for the refugees, Sonnenallee takes on yet another meaning. I had the privilege of being invited into the “container camp” in Buckow several times. Even though I passed through a few times and the same security personnel were there each time (and recognized me), they had to see my ID and sign me in every single time. Though it made no difference to me, it was quite distressing to my host (my friend, M) as it was a reminder to him that he wasn’t “free” here in Berlin nor was he able to feel a part of Berlin. Every time we passed through he repeated how much he hated not just this protocol but being here in the camp and in Berlin. Here in this space, surrounded by the fence border, the refugees were kept in a different sort of Heterotopic space then the one I will go on to describe Sonnenallee as. This particular “space within a space” (the container camp) is within Berlin but not OF Berlin. This is a space of restriction, rules, exclusion. The people in this “other space” are not allowed to participate fully in being part of Berlin. Their access to the city is limited.

Sonnenallee is also a Heterotopic space, a space within a space – an Arab space within a German space. (Or, since we are often reminded that “Berlin is not Germany”, an Arab space within the space of Berlin, Berlin itself being a heterotopia within Germany!) Rather than exclusion, this (Sonnenallee) is a space of inclusion for this particular community.  While the camp was created by non Arabs for Arabs (and others), Sonnenallee is an Arab space created and supported by Arabs. Though non Arabs, such as myself, can walk through Arab Street, eat lunch or dinner here, make purchases, stop for a Hookah break, etc, Arab Street has slightly different cultural and social norms than the surrounding Berlin, perhaps only noticeable if you are actively watching. I, a self proclaimed “flâneuse” often walk alone. A woman walking alone through urban spaces isn’t as noticeable as it may have once been but here, on Sonnenallee at the height of daily activity, I felt conspicuous. Muslim women do not walk alone. Every woman I saw was either with their family, in a small group, with a man, or with at least one other woman. The families were gathered at the tables inside and outside of each restaurant but gathered at the two major hookah/shisha bars, I only saw men. I was also told by a couple of people (though could not confirm for myself) that though the Späti’s** on Sonnenallee sold beer and liquor as did Späti’s all around Berlin, the (Muslim) owners asked that you not stand outside on the sidewalk and imbibe your purchases right there, as you might outside of other Späti’s in Berlin; This was out of respect for their Muslim culture.  

 

V Conclusion – The Future?

There are several facets and layers of interest in regard to “Arab Street” but I left wondering what it would look like five or ten or even a year from now. Many of the refugees that I met were unsure of their fate in Berlin – M told me that he was told he has a fifty percent chance of being granted permanent stay in Germany but that his roommate had a five percent chance. I don’t know how these percentages are calculated but what will Arab Street look like if the majority are sent away? What will it look like if many of them stay? Will it expand beyond those approximate six blocks? Will Arabs become as ubiquitious in Berlin as the Turkish have become? And if I were to return to Berlin in a year or five years, would there finally be some Arabic graffiti in the city for me to study?

 

Notes

*Arab – I use the word “Arab” to speak of people from the countries that are part of the Arab League of
    nations (which includes the countries located on the Arabian Peninsula as well as several other
    Arabic-speaking countries) . Though Syria’s inclusion in this group has been suspended (due to the
    political situation and revolution), I am still including them as “Arab” here. The word “Arabic” is an
    adjective, used to describe things such as the language, food, etc.

 

** Späti – the shortened, vernacular for Spätkauf; essentially a corner store that sells candy, magazines,
    alcohol, etc. The Späti is part of Berlin culture and often people will sit or stand outside their Späti on
    the sidewalk to drink the beer they purchased, etc.

 

References

Boshnaq, Dan Bilefsky and Mona. “Street Artists Infiltrate ‘Homeland’ With Subversive Graffiti.” The
         New York Times. The New York Times, 15 Oct. 2015. Web
        https://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/16/world/europe/homeland-arabic-graffiti.html?mcubz=1.
        12 July 2017.

Silver, Hilary . “Placing Panethnicity: Performing Arab Space on Sonnenallee.” The Street and the Urban
         Public Sphere: Diversity, Difference, Inequality. International Sociological Association, Yokohama. July 2014. Lecture.


brief notes on Berlin (returned)

I’ve got many, many thoughts to unpack regarding my month in Berlin but for now, a couple notes:

I didn’t fall madly in love with Berlin as I thought I would. That’s not to say I didn’t enjoy it immensely, it just didn’t grab my heart the way places like Florence, Lisbon, or any city in Spain has. (Or Prague, for that matter, but Prague is a special case.) More on that later, but essentially, Berlin was “just” a cool urban space with all the things I love about Europe. I think I’m drawn more to places that have a kind of fiery, passionate atmosphere (see: Florence, any city in Spain.)

On that note, when we grabbed a last drink and dessert at an Italian place owned by our very Italian server and I switched from German to Italian to speak and banter with him, I had a typical Nikki thought – “Sigh. Maybe I should go back to learning Italian instead of German.. there are refugees in Italy, too, after all!” Tempting, tempting… as I looked over the languages offered at UW I also considered going back to Russian (which will certainly prove useful now, no?) or Chinese or… but no, no. If nothing else, I’ve learned when I should ditch my impetuous ways and stick to things over the past couple of years. German and second year Arabic, it is. I can go back to learning Italian on my own. (Also, when people keep telling me German is hard: nope. After Czech and Arabic, nothing is hard. German? Please. *LOL*)

I really loved having time to walk and get lost in playlists again. Once upon a time I would spend hours and hours making playlists and just listening to music. One of my best memories of living in Prague is all the time I spent walking from one corner of the city with only my iPod for company. I made several playlists in Berlin and I could tell by the quality of the playlists and how they began to sound different from everything I’ve made over the past few years that I was finding myself again, regaining pieces that I’d lost or forgotten.

On that note, having met and become friends with “refugees” really made me think about how we (holders of “the golden ticket”, i.e. passports from Western countries) talk to ourselves about our travels. I’d always thought I was adventurous and well traveled, up for anything. Then I began to think about how easy it is for us to travel and how “adventurous” is it, really? But more on that later, as well.

Lastly, thought I might not have fallen madly in love with Berlin, I definitely appreciate the fact that there is no other place quite like Templhof Airport. Truly magical.

 

#sunset at #templehof ! #berlin #runway #mustsee #deutschland #parks #latergram #bikes

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